Sicily’s Etna is one of the most exciting wine regions in the world currently. Etna is home to some of the most diverse soil types due to the active volcano in which the region’s name originates from, Mt. Etna. Altitude, as well as soil, is a huge factor in the uniqueness of the wines crafted from the volcanic enclave. Domestically we are familiar with valley fruit or low-altitude vines, few wines are crafted from vines beyond 900 ft, Atlas Peak in the Napa Valley being one of the very few exceptions.

The vines of Etna are a complete contrast with most vines starting at about 3,300 ft going all the way up past 4,000 ft elevation. This is where the dynamism of Etna really starts taking shape. Vines that are grown at these elevations are incredibly painstaking to graft since mechanized vehicles cannot help with the vineyard practices. Though it is exclusively cultivated and cared for by those in the vineyard, this allows for a more hands-on and careful approach to grape-growing, vineyard management, and vinification processes. Due to this hands-on approach, the province is home to some of Italy’s oldest vines, some that even pre-date Phylloxera. Now that I’ve geeked out over the intricacies of what sets this wine region apart from any other in the world, let’s discuss the grape of Etna, Nerello Mascalese, as well as the winemaking styles and wines that hail from the area.

Nebbiolo? Burgundy? No, Nerello Mascalese!

Nerello Mascalese is a varietal native to Sicily that originates from the Mascali plain that is in between the volcanic slopes of Etna and the coastline of the Ionian Sea to the east. As I said earlier in this blog, Etna is doing things on their own terms – and we really love to see it. Over the past year I have tasted a plethora of Etna wines, all of which have their own unique taste profile and style. One style I have come across often is one the mimics the nuances of Nebbiolo produced from Barbaresco. Unlike the brawny and burly wines that are seen in Barolo, Barbaresco is a bit softer with aromas of iron ore, rose petals, and sour cherry typically with high acid and medium tannins. These qualities are mirrored in Etna especially from producers such as Benanti, Cottanera, and Idda (joint venture between Italian giants Gaja and Graci). Now the pendulum swings to Burgundy. I know what you are thinking, how could a region as sunny and warm as Etna produce anything that tastes like Pinot Noir from Burgundy? Nerello Mascalese, baby, Nerello Mascalese. Though it is a darker skinned grape, the high elevations of the vineyards and volcanic soils influence the grape whilst it is growing and thus mimicking Burgundy. As in Burgundy, the parcel in which your grape is grown in plays a huge role on the style of wine that will be produced. In Etna’s most sought-after parcels (referred to as Contrade’s) the wines are almost indecipherable from Burgundy and its elegant qualities.

Softer ruby in color with nuances of ash, bing cherry, fresh rosemary, and forest floor on the nose with streamlined tannins and finesse on the palate. Expect producers such as Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Famiglia Statella, and Vini Franchetti to be making wines in this style.

To round out this post only one thing needs to be said; the wines from Etna are like no other in the world. Every time I try a new producer, I am shocked at the diversity in wines that are coming out of this relatively small wine region. Below are some Etna wines we carry in house – I would implore you to try any one of these bottles the next time you are in.

2021 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana: $81.99

“The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2021 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana has a savory, almost autumnal personality with tobacco, wet moss, spice and dark fruit. It stands apart from the other wines in the portfolio thanks to those darker fruit qualities. Marc De Grazia uses the unusual word “feline” to describe a mouthfeel that is long and sleek. I notice the dry, silky nature of the elegant tannins.”

2020 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera le Vigne di Don Peppino: $169.99

96+ Points: Monica Larner – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

*Crafted from vines that pre-date 1880*

“Don Peppino was a farmer who was born in a house on this property, and he worked in the vineyards for 70 years, since he was 10 years old. He died just over five years ago. This excellent wine is dedicated to him. The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2020 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera le Vigne di Don Peppino shows extra freshness and crisp fruit definition. Indeed, fruit is sourced from the highest part of the Calderara site. This is a soft and silky expression with a seriously long-lasting and nuanced finish. The wine is firm in terms of mouthfeel, and the tannins fade away elegantly.”

2020 Vini Franchetti Etna Rosso Passorosso: $44.99

91 Points: Monica Larner – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

“The 2020 Etna Rosso Passorosso has a bright and punchy bouquet with blackcurrant, rosemary sprig, white pepper, cola and ferrous earth or rusty nail. There is a sanguine, almost metallic element to the bouquet. The wine proceeds with medium texture, firm tannins and good length. Much of that power is fueled by a 15% alcohol content. This vintage saw 29,800 bottles made, which is much less than normal production numbers.”

2020 Masseria Setteporte Etna Rosso: $23.99

“Impressive and full of personality with a distinct, territorial imprint. When tasting the Nerello Mascalese from Masseria Setteporte one can almost imagine the steep, high altitude vineyards which cling to the slopes of Mount Etna in the red, mineral, volcanic soil of the Biancavilla area.”

2019 Famiglia Statella Etna Rosso Pignatuni: $59.99

95 Points: Monica Larner – Robert Parker

“With fruit from ancient vines, the Famiglia Statella 2019 Etna Rosso Pignatuni offers medium-rich concentration and presents a detailed bouquet with cassis, grilled herb, lavender and white pepper. The wine offers ample dimension and energy with a polished, linear style. This wine hits it out of the ballpark.”

2016 Alta Mora Etna Rosso Guardiola: $64.99

94 Points: Monica Larner – Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

“Alta Mora reveals its high-value cards with this wine. The 2016 Etna Rosso Guardiola is a carefully manicured wine from an excellent growing site and a classic vintage. It has benefited from long bottle age (following 18 months in large oak casks), and that extra time in glass has proven fundamental for the balance and fruit integrity displayed here. It shows dried cherry and redcurrant with dusty tannins and lasting notes of campfire ash. The mouthfeel ends on a dry note. Ultimately, the palate feels more mature than the bouquet does. Alta Mora farms three hectares in Contrada Guardiola with ancient alberello (or bush-trained) pre-phylloxera vines.”